Running down the sandy path of The Mall, I awaited the arrival of my colleague Francesca, while passing by the massive red, white, and blue flags, and pondering over the significance and history of London, the capital and centre of the United Kingdom.

While on the steps beside the ICA, Institute of Contemporary Arts, where the morning London Fashion Week (@londonfashionweek) events were being hosted, I watched the tourists taking breaks with families taking pictures of the ceremonial empty road that at moments in history have been walked by the greatest figures in UK history. It was the perfect location to start this season of London Fashion Week since it was a tribute to the diversity and richness of British fashion, spotlighting the remarkable contributions of Black, South Asian, and Queer communities. Communities who have been historically forgotten, diminished, undermined, and purposefully not shown by the spotlight. With a keen focus on the evolution of menswear, from the classic sophistication of Savile Row to the incredible curations of spaces with upcoming and diverse designers from various UK-based backgrounds and communities, this event celebrated heritage and innovation. Hosted by @1664blanc taking place, LFW took place from Friday 7th to Sunday 9th June 2024 and aimed to ignite a cultural moment in London, celebrating its 40th anniversary with a bold new format.

This season provided a platform for diverse British designers and brands, focusing on the depth and breadth of the UK’s menswear businesses. The event spotlighted London’s position as a world-leading cultural capital and amplified its vibrant creative community.

Curator Kai @kai_isaiah_jamal described to me the meaning of their curation and emphasized the importance of representing the queer community authentically, highlighting that often, the community is misrepresented by those who are not part of it. They aimed to ensure that the representation was genuine and respectful. They discussed the intentionality behind creating the space, ensuring that it conveyed a narrative and gave a voice to the designers. The soundscape played a crucial role in this, featuring the designers talking about their work, which provided context and understanding for visitors, especially those not from the community. This approach allowed the voices of the creators to be heard alongside the physical display of their garments, enriching the overall experience.

They spoke about the afternoon tea event as well which they organized for LFW which was designed to break traditional, gendered norms associated with high tea, which has historically been a space for cis women.

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Afternoon T - Jelly Luise 7 JUN 2024-17 -

LFW Press

Designer @carlotabarrera whose work was curated by Kai shared with us her experience as a queer woman who started with designing menswear and expanded beyond that, bringing in her identity and queerness into her pieces as well as her Spanish heritage. She guided us through her journey in designing menswear, evolving her creations to explore the queer female gaze, while also celebrating Spanish culture and queer history.

On Day 2 of LFW, we were welcomed into her Pop up where we explored some pieces from her previous collection. Elegant silhouettes of basics that incorporated an openness in a structure that did not disrupt the pieces but rather expressed the bodies within them further, Carlota can with her designs expand the human form and drive us between an exploration of masculinity and femineity in her pieces.

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LFW Press

As Francesca and I turned down the stairs to take a break, we stumbled upon another designer whose work intrigued us @mr.albarella. ALBARELLA's designs were beautifully curated against a window of green-leafed trees of The Mall embracing the glass while the sun shone through the piece and allowed it to breathe within the space. It was also constrained and stood more as a concept rather than a thing that is worn as said by the designer himself when describing the curator Kai’s intentions when curating the space. Albarella speaks about his gay identity in Italy and the struggles that came with that in a country that celebrates masculinity traditionally and conservatively:

“In Italy, you can’t be open about your identity and I’m so happy to be here in London, showcasing this. I believe in destroying the traditions of toxic masculinity to form a new for masculinity through my designs.”

This room spoke to me in a language of love, culture, expression and atmosphere. I could feel the care, the expressions, the embodiment of heritage between the designs, the photography and the details in curation.

Simran (@simran), a south-Asian brand consultant and creative, as the curator spoke to us about her vision for curating the space:

As she looked in awe around the celebration of her culture and expressed her excitement about curating the space, she emphasized the room's exploration of the British South Asian contribution to fashion, particularly focusing on fabric and textiles. Her main point was the global exploitation of South Asian craftsmanship by luxury houses, which often fails to receive proper recognition or visibility. 

Simran highlighted the inclusion of young British South Asian designers, noting the variety and innovation in their use of fabrics. Each designer interacts with the textiles uniquely. 

The designers showcased were:

@hadiyahahussain

@rahemurrahman

@harri_ks

@lahos.world

@smrdays

@ahluwalia

@misho_designs

@rokeratelier

photo: perediza

After taking a lunch break and discussing the schedule, I went back to enjoy the “Sound & Harmony” event. An event delving into the contributions of Black culture across all aspects of British creative industries, with self-love as the central theme. The occasion featured an exclusive live performance by Debbie Ehirim, known as ‘Debbie’ @debbie_ and a DJ set by @jordss.dj who I had the pleasure of speaking to personally before the performance. Debbie, a beautiful and talented singer, with soulful R&B music, her voice in conjunction with the keys spun the audience.

On Day 2, I had the pleasure of attending a significant panel on Diversity organized through the series “Explorations in Blue” hosted by Vogue Business journalist @malihashoaib. The conversation included discussing the aspects of diversity and inclusion in the industry with @Simran, @i__d host and presenter @Lea.Ogunlami, and multi-disciplinary artist @hausofdarkwah.

Simran expressed her pride in showcasing her culture through a carefully curated exhibition. This event brought her friends' work into the spotlight, creating a space where cultural identity was naturally celebrated. Simran, one of the few South Asians in the industry early in her career, shared the immense pressure she felt to represent her entire community. Brands often pigeonholed her, seeing her as a symbol rather than an individual. Her experiences underscored that diversity is not just about black, white, and Asian representation but spans a broader spectrum, highlighting the need for more inclusive practices.

Lea Ogunlami, a black woman in the media, revealed her initial struggle to find role models. This lack of representation illustrated the industry's broader shortcomings. She pointed out the pervasive classism and questioned how the industry could make POC feel genuinely comfortable. Lea recounted a distressing incident where a black model was ridiculed for her natural hair by a stylist, starkly showcasing the industry's ongoing challenges with inclusivity. She emphasized that while the fashion industry is inherently capitalistic, small changes—like interviewing diverse models and respecting their unique attributes—can create safer, more inclusive spaces. For Lea, authenticity means presenting the real, sometimes messy, human stories, not just a polished facade.

Darkwah, proudly Ghanaian, shared their journey of navigating the industry without a specific role model. They had to constantly manage others' perceptions while striving to be true to themselves. Darkwah critiqued superficial diversity efforts, questioning the genuine intent behind such initiatives. They highlighted that the pressure to be "palatable" often forces individuals to compromise their true identities. Darkwah proposed radical changes, such as passing down leases to LGBTQ communities to build a legacy beyond traditional family structures. They argued that true diversity involves protecting and supporting marginalized individuals at all levels, including corporate settings.

The host of the panel shared an emotional response to Simran Randhawa's exhibition, appreciating the authentic cultural representation. She remarked on how the industry tends to accept only certain forms of diversity, often fitting into a specific mould that excludes many.

The discussions at the LFW diversity panel underscored the pressing need for the fashion industry to move beyond superficial diversity measures. The panellists called for systemic changes to foster a genuinely inclusive and authentic environment. This call to action aims to pave the way for a fashion industry where all individuals, regardless of their background, can feel seen, respected, and valued.

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Maharishi 30th Eeva Rinne BFC - LFW Press

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Maharishi 30th Eeva Rinne BFC - LFW Press

Hardy's unwavering commitment to honouring his family's legacy through the Maharishi brand profoundly moved me. His ability to seamlessly blend historical elements with contemporary designs offers a poignant reflection on the role of designers in channelling not only their personal identities but also the essence of their communities, heritage, and culture.

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Savile Row June 24 Eeva Rinne BFC - LFW Press

Fashion, history, and culture intertwine like the intricate threads of a fabric, each telling a story that transcends mere aesthetics. Understanding the rich tapestry behind this veil has enlightened my perception of clothing, imbuing each piece of fabric with deeper meaning and significance. It’s a powerful reminder that what we wear is not just about fashion but a celebration of identity, history, and cultural heritage.

photos above: LFW Press: (small): QASIMI A24

(large): UEL A24

 © perediza 2024