Part I by Diego

Just as the autumn seemed to be storming into London bringing that fantastic air of change, a drastic drop in temperature and a definite sense of transition, @londonfashionweek kicked off, celebrating its 40th anniversary.  And in a true spirit of the changing season once again London served as a stage for multiple designers, numerous teams of creatives and brands to showcase their latest collections, proving once again that London is an international creative hub, a place for experimentation, a place of pushing creativity and most of all a place that platforms and celebrates emerging talents from all corners of the world.

I met Aryana for a coffee and a little breakfast at the LFW press room, where we compared notes on our morning events and broke down the day ahead of us. In our bags, we had everything from makeup, water, power banks, and a camera to undertake the busy schedule that we had planned, and so, we ventured into east London on a bus full of people in extravagant attire varying from a full brown leather suit to orange pants and pink crop tops, and we all knew we were heading to the same place.

One of the things that makes events like LFW special is the immersive aura and the environment around the event; the sophisticated performance that we all play when sitting in a room to admire clothes walk by, the mini critiques we all feel entitled to make to other people in attendance when the show finishes, which makes for moments of fun and camaraderie. And of course, we all try to bring the fashion and the “looks” as invitees to the shows. Attendees to the presentations are all decked out in their most fashionable looks, whether an explosion of colours and outrageous silhouettes, or sleek clean monochromatic looks.

Both Aryana and I were impressed by how gorgeous people looked on many of the shows and how people enjoy clothes, proving that fashion is indeed a true force for self-expression and the creation of who we are and want to be and be perceived both by ourselves and others. However, talking over a kebab in what felt like a funny moment of “the reality between the glamorous illusion of fashion week” we also discussed how quickly the apparent  “importance” of fashion fades quickly to the background when things like basic human rights and needs are in peril, reminding us of the importance of bringing self-awareness and the need for criticality when engaging with such a powerful and visually impactful force as fashion and the value we bestow upon it.

Her shoe collection juxtaposes classic footwear silhouettes with bold patterns and materials, from metallic to animal print. Sacrca juxtaposes and clashes styles like sport and corporate, classic and bold in her inspired ss25 collection debuting two sustainable collaborations with Clarks and Crocs repurposing different shoes from the two brands and infusing them with new life and her signature style, showing that you can tell an old story a new moving towards a more sustainable approach to shoe design. To me Sarca’s showcase also demonstrates the incredible creative power of world-building and the summation of creative energies from fashion design, to curation, to set design to bring a unique and immersive experience that heightens the enjoyment of those objects that we, humans, wear as part of our daily lives.

For their London debut OTKUTYR, a fashion house based in Saudi Arabia brought an air of haute couture, making a collection that showcased different personas and aspects of the creatives involved with the brand. In the same manner, Baharani designer Zahra Ahmed of Through Threads presented a series of intricate looks symbolising the challenges of relationships, the pieces were crafted by mixing loose and entangled threads which is the designer's signature material. Shonagh, a self-taught designer, brought innovation in the form of knitwear, introducing a series of creations that recreated ultra-feminine styles and silhouettes but were all knitted by hand using sustainable materials, resulting in oversized knitted confections. American designer Sharon A. Keyser brought a sensitivity for texture, pattern and quality materials with a vibrant display of garments that showcased her creative personality. London-based designer Suki Wang presented her signature nature-inspired array of silk creations which bring her multicultural heritage to the forefront of her design practice. Susan Li presented accessories of her brand SULI which incorporate materials such as pearls, gold and thread to create pieces inspired by personal memories, and her childhood and highlight her Manchurian heritage, specifically the elegance of the Qing Court. 

Mo Zhou from Chow. Moo mixes her Chinese background with her experiences in Italy and the UK, presenting complex draped creations that combine creativity with practicality infused by her global outlook.  Annie Xing proposes the idea of thinking about fashion as interactive art by mixing garment design with parametric design and digital tools to innovate in structure and interaction, she incorporates artistic theory like Duchamp's theory of audience involvement, making her garments a statement of research and questioning which we, in Perediza  resonate a lot with. Last but certainly not least, Beijing-born designer  Lavender Luo presented garments that incorporate unconventional materials like metal tubes, zips and mirrors, in a collection that looked to explore the idea of playing with the circular shape providing a mix of experimentation with an acute sense of construction and craftsmanship.

Aryana and I were quite impressed by the versatility and true feel of innovation brought by each of the designers showcased, and with a glass of champagne, two pairs of tired feet and stunning views of the Bank area we discussed the day we lived feeling invigorated by all the creativity, multiculturality and diversity that each designer can convey and bring to the forefront of their creations with their collections and presentations, and with that we finished our day.

Part II by Aryana

Walking through the green and sunny park in Stratford, I was greeted by hues of orange, military green, and grey, signalling I had arrived at RÆBURN's (@raeburn_design) 15th Anniversary Retrospective exhibition. The personal touches, like the childhood props from Christopher Ræburn’s past, immediately caught my eye and became my favourite part of the detailed curation. These artefacts provided a glimpse into the designer's journey, showing how his passion was formed long before his brand became a pioneer in sustainable fashion.

My connection with RÆBURN began when I stumbled upon one of RÆBURN’s stores in Soho with my partner, an outdoor clothing enthusiast. We were struck by the logo, imagery, and visuals, but learning the history and meaning behind the brand’s sustainable practices made the discovery even more profound. The exhibition reflected RÆBURN’s core values, including his commitment to responsible design, with pieces showcasing his collaborations with brands like Nike and Aesop.

Seeing these artefacts, from the sewing machine to the intricate garments, stirred an unexpected emotional response in me. It was a testament to how one man’s creativity, resourcefulness, and dedication to sustainability have shaped an entire movement within the fashion industry. RÆBURN’s mission to act as a "catalyst for change" was evident throughout the exhibit, as was his continued focus on collaboration and innovation. His partnerships with global brands, such as Moncler and The North Face, have amplified the message that fashion can—and should—work towards a more sustainable future.

Speaking with some of the brilliant people behind RÆBURN added to the experience. Their friendliness, warmth, and genuine care for their craft mirrored the philosophy of the brand itself—responsible, thoughtful, and community-focused. It was inspiring to see how RÆBURN has cultivated a legacy of adventure and sustainability, leaving an indelible mark on both the fashion industry and the planet.

This retrospective wasn’t just a look back at RÆBURN’s past; it was a celebration of his vision for the future—a future where fashion and sustainability continue to evolve together.

Each room was a celebration of detail, from the voluminous floral installation consisting of gorgeous yellow flowers to the bold colours of white and blue stripes and pink, colours surrounding the shoes. But what stood out most was the connection between the shoes and the emotions they evoked. Shoes, often seen as mere accessories, here became symbols of something deeper—pieces that ground us, yet elevate us at the same time. 

There is a philosophy behind shoes that transcends their function. As we walked through the rooms, I noticed the quiet moments of joy among women, the twinkle in their eyes as they admired the heels. The perfect pair of shoes has the power to transform not just an outfit, but a mood, a state of mind. Malone Souliers’ SS25 collection, with its marquise-shaped crystals and pin-up inspired cage sandals, captured this duality. It reminded us that shoes are more than adornment—they are companions on our journey, symbols of how we navigate the world with grace, irony, and flair.

Malone Souliers’ Co-Creative Directors said it best: “The collection is infused with joie de vivre and irony, playing with the cliché and iconic themes of that era.” Indeed, the collection was playful and bold, yet deeply thoughtful. Each pair seemed to embrace both the past and the present, inviting us to reflect on why fashion exists: to fascinate, to elevate, and ultimately, to bring us joy.

After the grace of Malone Souliers, stepping into JENN LEE’s (@jennlee_official) world at Conway Hall felt like entering a future where fashion meets wellness in the most unexpected ways. The deep green velvet curtain—sharp against the wooden floors—set the tone for a show that blended the playful with the precise. JENN LEE’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was both a reflection of nostalgia and an embrace of holistic simplicity, a perfect harmony of elements that felt at once cultural, aesthetic, and futuristic.

The pre-show acupuncture ritual—an unprecedented collaboration with Taiwan’s Qiaosi Yan—brought the theme of wellness to life. Watching the models, I couldn’t help but think about how time shapes creativity. JENN LEE manages to pull from the past while envisioning a future where fashion and ancient rituals coexist. This collection, perforated by both needles and ideas, made me reflect on how we wear time: in fashion, in memory, and in the body itself.

JENN LEE’s work reminds us that creativity is not bound by the present. Her designs blend time and tradition, drawing from the past, and looking to the future, but staying rooted in the now. It’s this expansive use of time that defines her vision, where culture and heritage are not just referenced but fully integrated, shaping a new direction for fashion that is as much about the mind and body as it is about style.

Constantinou’s use of vibrant hues and materials evoked the beauty and fragility of our planet’s diverse landscapes. Drawing inspiration from extreme climates, from the desert to the lush forests, his designs reflected not only the natural world but also the damage inflicted upon it. His collaboration with Demon Footwear and jewellery designer Octi added tactile depth, translating nature’s raw beauty into wearable art. The post-apocalyptic and futuristic elements in his pieces carried a powerful message about our environmental crisis, blending functionality with a deeper reflection on the necessity of adaptation and survival.

Emotion filled the room as his collection unfolded—a fitting conclusion to a week where fashion pushed us to think critically, connect emotionally, and confront the reality of the world around us. The show was the perfect end and reflection to a celebration of the art of fashion and all it can teach us and make us feel. Thank you to London Fashion Week, the British Fashion Council, and our dear friends for allowing us to question on the runway.

 © perediza 2024